If you're trying to figure out how to transport goats for the first time, you probably have a lot of questions about whether your current vehicle is up to the task or if you need to go buy a trailer. Goats are notorious for being a bit unpredictable, and moving them from point A to point B isn't quite the same as taking a dog for a ride. They're curious, easily spooked, and—let's be honest—total escape artists if given half a chance.
Whether you're bringing home a new pair of kids, heading to a livestock show, or moving your entire herd to a new pasture, getting the logistics right makes a huge difference. If you rush it, you end up with stressed-out animals (and a stressed-out human). If you plan ahead, it's actually a pretty manageable chore.
Getting the right setup ready
Before you even think about catching a goat, you need to look at what you're driving. The most common way to move goats is in a livestock trailer, but you don't necessarily need a massive 20-foot gooseneck if you're only moving two Nigerians.
For small numbers or smaller breeds, many people actually use the back of a pickup truck with a sturdy stock rack or even a large dog crate secured in the bed. If you go the crate route, make sure it's a heavy-duty plastic or metal one. Goats can be surprisingly strong when they're panicked, and a flimsy door won't hold them.
If you're using a trailer, give it a quick once-over. Check the floor for any soft spots or holes. Goats have thin legs, and the last thing you want is a hoof slipping through a gap while you're hitting 60 mph on the highway. Toss down some bedding—straw or wood shavings work best—to soak up moisture and give them some traction. A slick metal floor is a recipe for a leg injury.
Temperature and airflow are big deals
One thing people often overlook when learning how to transport goats is just how sensitive they are to temperature and drafts. Goats need plenty of fresh air, especially because their waste produces ammonia which can build up fast in a cramped space. However, they can't handle a direct, freezing wind hitting them in the face for three hours.
If it's summer, ventilation is your best friend. Use a trailer with slats or punched holes to keep the air moving so they don't overheat. If it's winter, you'll want to block off the front-facing vents to prevent a direct wind chill, while still leaving the back or top open for air exchange. If you're using a dog crate in a truck bed during a storm, you might need to throw a tarp over the top, but never wrap it so tight that air can't get in.
Preparing the goats for the trip
You might think it's a good idea to give them a big meal before a long trip, but it's actually the opposite. It's usually better to pull their grain a few hours before you leave. They can still have hay and water, but a stomach full of heavy grain can lead to bloating or motion sickness when they're being jostled around.
Also, check your paperwork. If you're crossing state lines, you almost certainly need a Certificate of Veterinary Inspection (CVI) and potentially proof of certain vaccinations or tests. Most states also require goats to have official scrapie ID tags. It's a pain to deal with the bureaucracy, but getting pulled over without the right tags can result in some hefty fines or even having your animals quarantined.
The art of loading without a fight
Loading is where most people lose their cool. If you try to manhandle a goat into a trailer, they're going to fight you. They're "prey" animals, so their instinct is to resist being forced into a dark, enclosed box.
The best trick is to use their stomach against them. A bucket of grain or some high-quality alfalfa can work wonders. If you can lead the "queen" of the herd in first, the others will usually follow her just to see what she's getting. If you're dealing with kids or goats that aren't lead-trained, you might have to pick them up and carry them. Just remember to support their chest and rump—never pick them up by the horns or the ears.
Once they're inside, don't tie them up unless you have a very specific reason to and you're using a breakaway halter. If a goat slips or the trailer takes a sharp turn, a goat tied with a standard lead rope can easily break its neck or choke. It's much safer to let them stand loose in a partitioned area where they can find their own balance.
Driving tips for goat chauffeurs
When you're on the road, you have to drive like you have a giant bowl of soup in the back that you don't want to spill. Avoid slamming on the brakes or taking corners like you're in a sports car. Every time you swerve or stop suddenly, the goats have to use a lot of physical energy to stay upright. On a long trip, this can wear them out and lower their immune systems.
If you're driving for more than four or five hours, plan a stop. You don't necessarily need to unload them—in fact, unloading them in an unfamiliar place is a great way to lose a goat—but you should offer them water. Most goats are picky and won't drink much while the vehicle is moving, so a 20-minute stationary break gives them a chance to hydrate and relax.
What to do when you arrive
Once you finally reach your destination, don't just throw the doors open and walk away. Let them come out at their own pace. They'll likely be a bit wobbly and disoriented.
Check them over for any signs of shipping fever, which is basically a respiratory infection brought on by the stress of travel. Look for runny noses, coughing, or a general "droopy" look. It's a good idea to keep newly transported goats in a quarantine pen for a week or two anyway, just to make sure they aren't bringing any diseases to your existing herd.
Give them plenty of fresh water and some good grass hay. Avoid giving them a bunch of treats or grain immediately, as their rumens might be a bit sensitive from the stress of the ride. Let them settle in and realize they're safe before you start introducing them to new herd mates or a new routine.
A quick checklist for your trip
Just to keep things simple, here's a mental checklist for whenever you're figuring out how to transport goats: * Floor traction: Is there straw or a rubber mat? * Ventilation: Is there enough air without a freezing draft? * Space: Are they too crowded, or is there too much empty space where they might get tossed around? * Safety: Are there any sharp edges or gaps where a hoof could get stuck? * Paperwork: Do you have your scrapie tags and vet papers? * Water: Do you have a bucket and a jug of water from home? (Goats often hate the taste of "new" water).
Transporting goats doesn't have to be a nightmare. It really just comes down to thinking like a goat. They want to feel secure, they want to be able to breathe, and they definitely don't want to fall over. If you can provide that, the rest of the trip should be smooth sailing. Just keep an eye on them, take the turns slow, and maybe keep a bag of animal crackers in the cab—sometimes a little bribe goes a long way once you get to the other end.